Measuring Extreme Nearshore Storm Waves Off the Irish Coast

Professor Dias will present a statistical analysis of nearshore waves observed during two major North–East Atlantic storms in 2015 and 2017. Surface elevations were measured with a 5-beam acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) at relatively shallow waters off the west coast of Ireland. To compensate for the significant variability of both sea states in time, a novel approach was used for analyzing the non-stationary surface-elevation series. The distributions of crest and wave heights are compared with theoretical predictions based on the Forristall, Tayfun and Boccotti models. In particular, the latter two models have been largely applied to and validated for deep-water waves. Profession Dias will show that they also describe well the characteristics of waves observed in relatively shallow waters.

Speaker: Professor Frederic Dias, University College Dublin

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